Whether you have dry skin, mature skin or just generally lacklustre, these tips and products can help you achieve a bounce and glow to your complexion. SheerLuxe asked me the questions, I answered...
Mature skin can be dry - first and foremost, what's your advice for prepping it?
Yes as we age our hydration levels deplete so it’s key to have a skincare routine that will flood it with moisture. Hyaluronic acid is your skin’s natural moisture giver, top it up with products that contain good levels in both serum and creams (SkinCeuticals are masters of the serums and creams for this).
Exfoliation is a really important step too, if you don’t remove the dead (and often dry/flakey) skin from the surface then nothing will be able to penetrate, nor sit well on the skin. Dr Dennis Gross has some peel pads that are quick and easy to use with incredible results.
A mask is a great skin prep too, be it a sheet mask or a creamy ungent…layer it on as you’re getting ready then remove a few minutes before you start your makeup for a plumped up complexion. I love the Valmont Moisturising Mask to give your face an instant hydration bath.
When it comes to dullness, how can you counteract the problem?
Vitamin C is a wonderful anti-oxidant to protect your skin from daily aggressors whilst giving an instant radiance and over time, aid pigmentation. Serum form is best as the ingredients are more concentrated (look for a high percentage) and best applied in the morning as the glow and environmental shield will be with you all day(Omorovicza Vitamin C Serum is my current fave). Another favourite of mine for brightening the skin is an LED mask. Just ten minutes of red LED light therapy will give your skin, and mind, a boost. It works below the skin’s surface to promote its natural vitality, collagen is stimulated and over time, fine lines will reduce in appearance. Used regularly you’ll really see a difference.
What textures of make-up work best for mature skin and why?
As skin matures, we need to be a bit more savvy with our cosmetic shopping. Invest in products that are rich in texture but clever in their results. For example; a foundation that has built-in skincare benefits (Monika Blunder ‘Blundercover’ Foundation/Concealer is amazing) or a blusher that has colour plus a sheeny finish (try Laura Mercier Rose Glow Blush Colour Infusion). Thus you need less products and what you do buy is working harder for you.
What would a good step-by-step make-up routine look like for better glow?
Skin is the most important area to focus on. Ensure your skincare and prep is done well and start with a smart primer. For very dry skin, I like the VB x Dr Bader Cell Rejuvenating one as it’s high-tech skincare and a glowy base all in one. If pores are more your issue, Tatcha’s Liquid Silk Canvas primer is amazing to blur any texture.
Foundation should be light in texture with multi-tasking ingredients, I love the La Mer Radiant Skin Tint, also has SPF30 so you’re protected. Concealer is the hero product of flawless skin, only applying where you need it. Charlotte Tilbury’s new ‘Beautiful Skin Concealer’ is fab to cover any discolouration; darkness under the eyes, redness around the cheeks/nose or small marks of pigmentation. It also has vitamin c and vegan collagen to feed your skin as you wear it. Blusher is important to add some colour and life back into your complexion. Gucci Westman has some fab sticks that you can swipe, blend with fingers and you’re off.
Aside from this, curl your lashes prior to mascara; for a wide-eyed open and awake appearance, fill in your brows to ‘pillar’ your face and take years off, then dab a little tint on your lips as they loose pigment (and fullness) as we age.
I’d recommend: Surrat Eyelash curlers, Benefit brow pencils, Monika Blunder Lip tints/balms.
How can you subtly enhance mature skin, without it looking OTT?
It’s all about the glow. You can have good skin if you look after it but it needs more stimulation and radiance boosting products as the years clock up. Bronzer is a great products, especially in cream form as you can use it to sculpt as well as warm up the tone of your skin. Charlotte Tilbury’s blends seamlessly.
Apply blusher slightly higher that you might have in your youth, just above where the cheekbone ends, under your eyeline, thus lifting your facial structure and the colour is nearer your iris, making your eyes pop more.
Do you believe in highlighters for mature skin - how to use them best without settling into creases?
Highlighter is always a good idea. It’s an easy addition to your makeup bag and you can use it on the face and eyes. Powder that doesn’t contain too much talc is a good place to start as cream is more malleable so yes, can settle into fine lines. Guerlain’s Meteorites Pearls of Powder is clever too as it is multi-tonal so will colour correct your skin upon contact (dubbed ‘Magic Dust’ on TikTok). Super glow-giving and works for all year round; swipe onto cheekbones, being careful to avoid the eye area/crows feet, add a little to the bridge of your nose and also top of your forehead…light bring the features forward, almost like reverse contouring.
With your little finger or a small brush, dab a little pale sheeny eyeshadow to the inner corners of your eyes for a wide-awake finish. (Dior’s backstage eye palette is fab)
What about foundation - is this the best option for mature skin or should you opt for something lighter?
I’d say go lighter. Opt for tints and light to medium coverage. No-one really needs more than that, fuller coverage just looks cakey and old fashioned. For areas of concern that you want to hide, use a full coverage, creamy concealer in targeted zones and blend until it meshes with the tint.
I’d recommend: Fenty Eaze Drop Blurring Skin Tint, Anastasia Magic Touch Concealer.
How can you create glow without causing make-up to roll/ball off/pilling?
Take your time. Once your skincare is complete, allow 5-10 minutes for the products to settle in and get to work. Too many lotions and potions mixed together before they’ve absorbed into the skin is a recipe for pilling. If time is of the essence, how about doing your eye makeup prior to your face, that way when it comes to applying your base, your skincare/primers would have had the time to set. Other than that, get boujis and have a fan on your dressing table and waft your products dry ;-)
As for application, do you recommend brushes or fingers for mature skin to create glow?
I think this is really a preference thing, whatever you’re comfortable with and makes the job easier for you. Skincare is where hands and fingers are working their magic, try to do a little facial massage as you apply, stimulating the skin and boosting circulation. It’s relaxing and allows you to feel your facial structure and judge what makeup you might need for that day. Brushes are handy for foundation as I find it’s a little faster to blend (go for a synthetic buffing style brush, Spectrum have some affordable ones, Tom Ford if you can splash the cash) and your fingers don’t get messy. Use your ring finger to apply concealer around the under eyes, it will warm up the product, aiding it to melt into the skin and that finger is the ‘weakest’ on your hand so your application will be super delicate.
Any other key tips you recommend for bringing life to duller skin types?
Look after yourself. It’s all well and good applying skincare and makeup to our skin but if you’re not healthy and nourished from your diet and lifestyle, you’re fighting a losing battle. Treat yourself; Thérapie Clinics are a one stop shop for all kinds of advanced aesthetic treatments. Book a regular facial visit; The Cavendish Clinic at John Lewis have a wide choice, my favourite being the Hydrafacial which will get your glow back in no time. Relax and take time for yourself, go for a long walk, get the circulation and red blood cells moving. Take supplements that your body needs, for vitamin c I love Altrient with it’s mega 1000mg per day…and smart supplements from ‘Advanced Nutrition Programme’ have individual pods filled with various pills to tailor your daily dose, genius.
Read the full SheerLuxe article here