Dark circles, pigmentation, blemishes, redness, scarring...these are some of the most requested 'imperfections' that I'm asked to conceal. Firstly, ensure your skincare is working it's hardest and please, consult a doctor or dermatologist where necessary. Aside from that, makeup can work wonders. With stubborn areas of concern, colour correcting does the trick. Hello! Magazine asked me to explain how it works and tips to getting it right...
Do you have any skin prep tips prior to colour correcting?
If your eyes are very puffy, especially in the morning, it’s a nice idea to drain and calm them. This can be done with a little facial massage, lightly ‘pushing’ the fluids out, away and down from the eyes with lymphatic drainage, it’s really relaxing too. Cold spoons held under the eyes are a time honoured trick, or invest in the very pretty and practical Rose Inc’s ‘Cooling Facial Spheres’, keep them in the fridge and roll away any inflammation prior to makeup application. I don’t think eye cream is always necessary, I don’t mind a bit of primer though…my favourite that I think is great to take under the eyes is Tatcha’s ‘Liquid Silk Canvas’. It’s a lightweight liquid, infused with silk extracts so the skin is smoothed, hydrated and prepped perfectly (allow a couple of minutes before going in with makeup on top).
What is the job of a colour corrector?
A colour corrector is a trusty makeup trick where the opposite colour to the 'problem' is applied to then counteract it and in this case, conceal it. It’s a technique that’s been used for decades, I learnt about it in my initial theatre training many years ago. It’s an idea that was initially quite bold, for use on stage and screen but has slowly trickled down to the mainstream makeup market. You can use it to cover spots, dark circles, pigmentation, redness and generally brighten the complexion.
Which colour corrector shades are best suited to the different skin tones?
Yes, for every colour you want to correct, there is an opposing colour that once applied, will effectively blot it out. For example, yellow cancels out purple which is often found under the eyes. If you suffer with some redness/rosacea in your skin (or cheeks/nose specific areas), a green colour will correct the imbalance. Darker skin tones are more blue in undertone, so an orange is ideal to tone and brighten there. If you suffer with pigmentation, that is considered a yellow or brown so a purple knocks that back.
How can you apply a colour corrector like a pro, and where does it fit into your makeup routine?
The colours I mention are the main options, from the universal colour wheel. The actual products and tones you apply to your skin will be much more subtle, depending on what you’re dealing with and want to cover. So a ‘yellow’ would be more of an ‘apricot’ tone, ‘orange’ could be more of a ‘peach’, ‘purple’ can be a ‘lavender’. Plus, different areas of the face might need different colours correcting. Assess what you really want to conceal and then you’ll know which corrector you’ll need. If it’s a few, you can invest in a makeup colour wheel selection, MAC do some great ones, for all skin tones that have six options in each (Studio Fix Conceal & Correct Palette). NYX does a great affordable option (Professional Makeup Colour Correcting Palette). Then there are some single options too, like Charlotte Tilbury’s under-eye correctors (Magic Vanish). After your skincare and primer, apply the correctors where you need and don’t be shy, press in a good amount but be strategic in your application. See where the main issue is and focus on that small area. It may look a bit scary at first but you’ll then go in with your foundations and regular concealers on top, at which point everything will blend together. Set with a little translucent powder and you’re good to go. For under the eyes, I love the Laura Mercier ’Secret Brightening Powder’ which sets concealer but also has light reflectors for extra radiance.
Thank you to Hello! Magazine. You can read the full article on their site here